Aluminum Sliding Windows: How to Choose Between 6 Series and Insulated vs Non-Insulated

Sliding windows open by gliding horizontally along a track. They don’t project inward or outward, which makes them a natural fit for balconies, narrow corridors, and any room where you want to keep the full outside view. As a supplier of aluminum sliding windows, we have lined up the six series we keep in production in one comparable table, and explained what each spec means on site.

What to read first

A few numbers on the product page drive the result more than the rest:

• Outer frame depth — how far the frame sits into the wall. A deeper frame usually takes thicker glass and steadier hardware.
• Sash depth — the depth of the moving sash, which affects rigidity and handle feel.
• Visible face width — the aluminum width showing on the exterior. Lower numbers read as a slimmer facade.
• Compatible glass thickness — the total glass build the profile accepts, which decides whether you can run insulated, laminated or Low-E glass.
• Wall thickness — the profile wall gauge, tied to overall window strength.

Six series at a glance

The full range sits under the aluminum sliding windows product page, and each series has its own page linked below.

Insulated or non-insulated

8055, HP502, HP904 and PBS9059 are insulated sliding windows: a thermal break sits inside the profile, so the aluminum outside and the aluminum inside are separated by a low-conductivity barrier. That is what you want on projects with real thermal or acoustic demands — bedrooms facing a road, hotels, or climates with a hot summer and a cold winter. PNS8352 and PNS9055 are non-insulated: simpler structure, lower cost, and the right call for mild climates, internal spaces or auxiliary rooms.

The cross-section below shows how an insulated sliding sash carries the glass and the break in one profile:

Which series fits what

• 8055 — 80 mm frame depth, 22 mm glass capacity; slim look with insulated glass. The general pick.
• HP502 — 50 mm frame depth, the slimmest of the range; for shallow openings and minimalist facades.
• HP904 — 90 mm frame depth with a shallow sash; good for large fixed glass with a small vent.
• PBS9059 — 19–36 mm glass span, the widest; laminated and insulated combinations for street-side noise or higher security.
• PNS8352 / PNS9055 — non-insulated, budget-first or temperate auxiliary spaces.

Points common to every choice

• Track and drainage — a sliding window rides and drains on the lower track; confirm the track type and drain holes.
• Sealing — insulated series carry multi-line gaskets; non-insulated series seal more basically.
• Hardware — rollers, locking points and anti-lift devices set the slide feel and the security.
• Glass — visible face width and frame depth together set the glass build you can run. If glazing is the main question, start with the Low-E glass guide.

How to choose: four steps

1. Check the project’s thermal and acoustic demand → insulated or non-insulated.
2. Check the opening depth and how slim the facade must be → frame depth.
3. Check the glass build (insulated / Low-E / laminated) → glass thickness margin.
4. Check the budget → the non-insulated series cost less.

Still deciding how the window should open at all? The opening styles guide compares sliding against casement, tilt-turn and folding layouts. For wide openings that also need pass-through, see the sliding doors guide. Surface and color options are covered in the finishes guide, and if thermal performance is the core requirement, the logic in the thermal break casement guide applies to sliding profiles the same way.

Still unsure which series fits? Send us the opening size, the floor level and the orientation of the project, and we will come back with a configuration suggestion.